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Shot by Sevin Pakbaz

INDIGO NEWBURY- CHUNN / DESIGNER

Indigo (aka Calli Comical) is a rising screen printer, sewist and designer in Sydney. She works as a commercial screen printer and as a seamstress in costuming, fashion, theatre, film and performance. Indigo started sewing when she was 15, entering the fashion and design industry at 17. Now, she’s being commissioned by artists and musicians alike, and working on costuming for the Moulin Rouge.

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Shot by Sevin Pakbaz

Interview with Nandini Dhir

Where did you start and how did you get to where you are now; selling your pieces and landing commissions?

 

I didn’t like high school very much. I was more of a hands-on learner, and I really needed to visualise things in order to understand them. My dad used to screen print as a teenager, he saw Bobbin and Ink on Parramatta Road and just suggested I reach out to them. I ended up doing work experience there for a week in year 10. The owner, Laura Walsh, is the primary reason I work in this industry. Without her direction and access to her facilities, I wouldn’t know how to sew or screen print at all. I eventually ended up working at Bobbin and Ink. I would stay back late to use the facilities and practice sewing and screenprinting. I spent years making mistakes, I spent days with nothing to show for all these hours of hard work, and then one day I slowly started to get things right. It just took a really fucking long time to pass that boundary. I also did a Certificate III in Applied Fashion Design and Technology at TAFE which is a really important course if you want to become a good seamstress and pattern maker.

 

How did you get into selling your work and putting your pieces out in Sydney?

 

I guess you could say I started when I was 14. I used to sell shitty chokers in high school for about two dollars. The first screen printed products I sold were some t-shirts. I remember selling them for about $20 which didn’t even cover the actual cost of the shirt, let alone my labour. I was just saying yes to everybody. Even though I was making no money off it, I felt great doing it! Then I started selling through Instagram just by myself. I undersold myself so much, and made no money – but it’s all practice, and you’re still learning. Sometimes, I still don’t make enough money for my labour, especially with screen printing; the money for my labour becomes non-existent.

What would you say has been one of the biggest challenges as an emerging designer and also working as a freelancer?

Standing your ground. I’ve had a lot of experiences with clients — people trying to take advantage of me — asking me to do something in half the amount of time, or pay half the amount of money. People will take you for a ride because you’re young and don’t have qualifications behind you.

What materials do you like working with and where do you source them from?

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Most of my fabrics come from Bobbin and Ink because they sell donated fabrics. I also get a lot of materials from the Selvedge Society which is run by volunteers. I love working with garbage fabric; I’ll find some disgusting polyester and think, “There’s gotta be something I can do with this.” Though I don’t like to buy fabric brand new, sometimes I’ll need to for commissions. I like E&M Greenfield in Surry Hills, or Metro Fabrics, an online vendor, is great for corsetry supplies.

Where do you get your inspiration from?

 

Musicians! At the moment I’m working in costuming, and so I spend the entire day wearing headphones as I sew. A lot of my inspiration comes from creating characters in my head, and then tying that into visual and audio concepts. In terms of designers, my top three are always going to be John Galliano, Alexander McQueen and Vivienne Westwood.

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Calli Comical

How would you describe your style of design?

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Maybe eccentric? I think clothing is stupid, which is weird beause I do it for a living, but I’m not in it to make money. A lot of the ideas I get come from emotions I’m having or events that are occurring in my life. I have a lot of weird dreams too, and I do remember them, which is nice because then I have this unlimited spectrum of creativity. If I wanted to sell things, and make things that sell, I could. But, I don’t want to do that, which is why I make stupid hats with horns that you can’t wear in the rain – just dumb shit!

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Shot by Sevin Pakbaz

Top 3 fashion trends you’ve seen around Sydney that you love?

 

1. Old dudes in really heavy leather jackets and old Levi’s
2. Utility belts, bum bags & crossbody satchels
3. Millinery

Who do you think is the most exciting young & emerging creative in Sydney?

 

Josh Lee

Fashion Designer
@fragileminds

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